The best cure of Himalayan Hangover is to get high on Himalayas again.
Not even fifteen days had passed since I returned from Leh-Ladakh and I had already started dreaming of returning to my favourite abode – The Himalayas.
So when an opportunity of a long Dusshera weekend knocked the door, I planned a Himalayan quickie – a trip to Lahaul-Spiti.
Along with my friend and her 4 years old daughter I left for Manali on 1st October night. As usual, against the promise of reaching Manali in 14 hours, the bus took more than 20 hours. And it was a very treacherous and arduous journey.
Nevertheless, as I landed in Manali, the whiff of fresh Himalayan air worked like a soothing balm. We checked in our Conifer Woods cottage at Simsha village. Conifer woods experience was beyond words. If I could use one word to describe our hosts it would be – BADE DILWALE. They made sure our stay, travel and food was perfect.
Basis my experience, here are my ten suggestions to make your Lahaul trip an awesome trip:
Never ever plan a trip to Mountains during long weekends: I learnt this lesson hard way. Was stuck in a mother of all traffic jams at Marhi, near Rohtang pass for two days – first time for three hours and next time for seven hours. The lovey-dovey couples, the BIG FAT Indian families, the college fuchas, the airport returned firang accented babes, the makeup ki dukaan babes, the middle aged uncle and aunties, the ‘Jat Risky After Whisky’ brash men, the UP ke bhaiyas (sorry, if I am sounding racist :P)…basically the entire janta from Haryana, Punjab, Delhi, UP,Uttarakhand and MP rushed to collect their share of a treasure hunt at Rohtang Pass. Otherwise why would everybody queue up there?
Hire a personal cab or book a seat on a shared cab: Thanks to Ramesh and Navang, the owners of Jispa Journeys, we got a local driver at Rupees Ten Thousand for a two days trip to Lahaul Valley. Our Driver, Ravindar’s good driving skills,soft spoken attitude and deep Lahauli knowledge made our trip memorable and rich. If you think Ten thousand is expensive then you can book shared Taxis which take Rupees Eight Hundred per person to drop you at either Kaza in Spiti or Keylong in Lahaul.
Carry lot of fruits and HPMC juices (Not real or Tropicana) to keep you hydrated: Lahaul and Spiti is a sparsely populated, dry barren region therefore you might not find dhabas for long distances. The Hardly-ever-maintained roads near Rohtang Pass and in Lahaul Valley makes you hungry quite often. Hence, it is best advised to carry your own supplies. And since air becomes thin in this region therefore fruits and juices are best to keep you hydrated. Carry lot of dry fruits and energy bars to keep your stomach full. But don't overeat as the winding roads might make you sick.
Take time to reach your Destination. Enjoy the journey: This rugged region has unique picturesque beauty of interlocking river valleys, deep gorges, lofty snow-capped mountains and enchanting mountain lakes, punctuated by tiny patches of greenery and villages clinging to the sides of rivers and glacial streams. Every village has a prayer flag fluttering over the Buddhist monastery. The views offered by Sisu,Jispa,Tandi,Keylong,Darcha,Zingzingbar,Baralacha La and everything that falls on the Manali-Leh highway is awe-inspiring. It is a paradise for Mountaineers, Trekkers, Hikers, Bikers and Photographers. So fasten your seat belts and enjoy God’s piece of heaven.
Tank up your Vehicle and Eyes at Tandi: Manali-Leh highway only has one petrol pump on the entire route therefore whether you are going to Leh or halting midway, don’t forget to tank up your vehicle. Also,Tandi is famous for the confluence of River Chandra & River Bhaga, forming RiverChandraBhaga which later becomes Chenab flowing into J&K and Pakistan. Sit and marvel the beauty of this sangam. About 4 km from Tandi Village, is the Guru Ghantal Monastery, believed to be Lahaul’s oldest monastery. Built of wood with slanting roofs, it has exquisite wood carvings and images of lamas. If you are visiting in summers, then do attend the Ghantal festival which is celebrated on the full-moon night around mid-June by monks along with the Hindu Thakurs of the area.
See the majestic sunrise at enchanting mountain lakes. Experience the Himalayan Homestay Experience: Deepak Taal andSuraj Taal offers one of the most splendid sunrise in Himalayas. Break your journey at Jispa or Darcha to experience the Sun’s romance with the lakes. But leave before 5:30 am from your homestay.Homestays in Jispa are cheap, available at approximately Rs. 500-1000 per room but food is expensive. You can also stay in tents at Darcha, which charge Rs.100 per bed. However, make sure you have extra blankets/quilts. Even in the early October, temperature dips to zero degree. And don't forget to carry from top to bottom winter clothes. It gets freezing cold as you move towards Baralacha La.
Marvel the hidden grandeur of Lahaul: The customs, rituals, beliefs and conventions of the humble unsophisticated people are the unique features of this border highland, which is also known as mini Tibet. Every village has ‘OM MANI PADME HUM’ prayer flag fluttering over the Buddhist monastery. These monasteries are more than a place of worship – they are the hub of the cultural life of the people. These stunning places of architecture and culture are still unexplored. Key monasteries in Lahaul are Guru Ghantal, Kardang, Shashur, Tayul and Ghemur besides small ones around hamlets and in deep mountains. Check this link for more info http://hplahaulspiti.nic.in/Monasteries.htm. Besides monasteries, there is also Lahaul’s lone fort – The Gondhla Fort. Built in 1700 AD, this eight storey fort is exclusively built with wood, in the tower type architecture.
Immerse yourself in the local culture: Lahauli natives are very simple and warm. They are shy in the beginning but then they pour their heart out. Their culture is Matriarchal culture. Three kind of marriages happen – love marriage, arrange marriage and theft marriage. Casteism doesn't plague their society. However, marrying a person lesser than your caste (sunar, lohar orbaniya) raises few eyebrows. Their wedding is a three day affair where everyone is dressed in a similar traditional dress. Drinking Chang (local beer) is like having an energy drink. Salted butter tea, thukpa and other Himalayan/Tibetan dishes consisting of meat, green veggies is their favourite food. They store their vegetables underground for winter consumption. And each houinLahaulSpitil Spiti stores at least five years supply of daily consumption
Relish your stay in Lahaul Spiti like the locals do: This ignored part of Himachal Pradesh requires your special attention. Therefore when you plan a trip for Lahaul Spiti, do it the way locals do. Slow down your pace. Take it easy. Keep at least 10-15 days in hand. The best time to visit Lahaul & Spiti is from mid-May to mid-October.Lahaul valley remains isolated from rest of the world from October-May due to closure of the Rohtang Pass. Although Spiti is an almost all-weather place.Lahaul and Spiti can be reached via Manali or Shimla routes.
Other small but important tips:
Government Rocks. Rest all Flops: If you want to stay connected with your family then buy yourself a BSNL SIM because no other SIM works upward Manali.
Unsaid Rule of the Road – Give way to Army Convoy: Never ever take panga with the army Jawans, even if they are wrong. Our Driver retorted and he almost got thrown in the Chandra River
Don’t experiment with Food too much. Stick to basics: Daal chawal, Maggie and Aloo ka parantha are staple food at dhabas here. If possible, have it at a Dhaba in Darcha, just after the police check post. He serves the best aloo parantha on the entire Manali-Leh highway
Carry a good quality sunscreen, sunshades and lip balm: Sunlight is direct and harmful in this part of the Himalayas, therefore carry a sunscreen of at least SPF50. Keep applying lip balm after every half an hour to avoid chapped lips
Wash your hair daily and keep them tied in a ponytail or a plait: Roads in Lahaul are dusty and with huge potholes therefore take precautions to save your hair from dust storm.
Wear comfortable clothes and shoes. No jeans please.
I hope I have given you enough reasons to get LAHAUL’ed before getting LEH’ed.
If you need any information after stay, travel or sightseeing, please feel free to contact me. As VODAFONE says, Happy to Help 🙂